the thin chef » Italian

One Last Taste of Summer

thin chef — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 01:57:01 +0000

This was officially the first really chilly day in Birmingham, but the cold was slowly seeping in all week in the form of drizzly rain, cloudiness, and general ick. Instead of my go-to comforting soup or baked-something-or-another, I took one glance at our CSA box brimming with ripe tomatoes and huge stems of green and purple basil and had an idea. If it couldn’t be warm and sunny outside, I’d cook something that would make it that way inside.

I made a quick tomato sauce with lots of fresh basil and tossed it with whole-wheat penne for just the right amount of heartiness. It was bright and warm and just the perfect way to really bid farewell to the warm weather and usher in the lovely fall. If it’s still warm enough where you are to have red, ripe tomatoes and fragrant, fresh basil, this is a great last taste of summer.

Simple Tomato-Basil Penne
serves 2

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon anchovy paste or 2 anchovies, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
Hot red pepper flakes, to taste
2 large or 3 medium ripe tomatoes, cored and diced
1/2 pound whole-wheat penne
1/4 cup fresh basil, julienned
Coarse salt, to taste

Heat olive oil in a large skillet with high sides or a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add anchovy paste, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring often, until fagrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, and add tomatoes. Stir to combine.

Meanwhile, cook pasta until just underdone, when it’s still just a little too chewy in the middle. Drain, reserving about 1/2 cup of cooking liquid, and add pasta to the pan with the tomato sauce. Toss to combine; if the pan looks dry, add a splash of the reserved cooking water. Cook until the pasta is al dente, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add basil, and stir to combine. Taste, and add salt if it needs it.

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Roll Out

happymouth — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 11:28:00 +0000

Last week when I was cooking from my freezer, I found the other half of this great whole-wheat pizza dough I made some time before the wedding. I never got around to blogging about it the first time around, but it’s definitely worth telling you about. The whole-wheat flour adds a wonderful chewiness and nuttiness that you don’t get with regular white pizza dough. It’s definitely not traditional Italian-style crust, but we loved it.

I made a quick fresh tomato sauce by halving and seeding, then roughly chopping 4 fresh tomatoes. I simmered them in a glug of olive oil with 1 grated clove of garlic. Instead of salt, I added about 2 teaspoons of anchovy paste. The one I have has butter in it (or some such thing) which added a lovely creaminess—but just a touch. Off the heat, I stirred in a few big pinches of fresh basil chiffonade.

Plain and simple mozzarella was sprinkled on top, and the whole pie was baked at 400° until the cheese was bubbly. Belissima!

Whole-Wheat Pizza Dough
{From Cooking Light magazine}
Especially since it’s been so hot out, our air-conditioned kitchen isn’t exactly warm and free from drafts. So what I like to do it fill a pan or bowl with superhot tap water, and put the dough and the water-filled bowl in the oven (but don’t turn the oven on!). It creates a nice warm spot for the dough to rise.

1 package dry yeast (about 2 1/4 teaspoons)
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 cups warm water (100° to 110°)
2 1/2 to 2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, divided
1 cup whole-wheat flour
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Cooking spray

Dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water in a large bowl; let stand 5 minutes. Lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Add 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, oil, and salt to yeast mixture, stirring until well-blended. Turn dough out onto a floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic (about 10 minutes); add enough of remaining flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, to prevent dough from sticking to hands (dough will feel tacky).

Place dough in a large bowl coated with cooking spray, turning to coat top. Cover and let rise in a warm place (85°), free from drafts, 45 minutes or until doubled in size. (Press two fingers into dough. If indentation remains, the dough has risen enough.) Punch dough down; cover and let rest 5 minutes. Divide dough in half; roll each half into a 12-inch circle on a floured surface.

{katie note} We always par-bake the crust because we like our pizza extra crisp. If you do, too, place the un-topped dough on a preheated pizza stone or a baking sheet on which you’ve sprinkled a bit of cornmeal. Lightly prick the dough with a fork, and bake at 400° until it’s lightly crispy. Top, then bake again until crust is brown and toppings are hot and bubbly.

Also, as I mentioned, the dough freezes quite well. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and then in foil. Then place the dough in a freezer bag, mark it with the date (and with what it is), and freeze for up to 3 months.

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An Old Favorite, Revisited

happymouth — Sun, 05 Oct 2008 16:37:00 +0000

When I was in high school, I decided for about a year that I was a vegetarian. In fact, for a while, I was vegan. Then I realized that my 100-pounds-soaking-wet self didn’t do so well without any animal protein at all. So I put the milk and eggs back in rotation. Then one day, I missed chicken, and I indulged in a PF Chang’s chicken lettuce wrap. After that, I realized that food was just more delicious when you eat meat.

Anyhow, my wonderful parents, while secretly knowing this was just a phase, made my eating preferences a priority in the house. We had this cookbook and leaned heavily on the dishes listed in it, especially the Eggplant Parmesan. Unlike many Italian-American dishes, it was super light and fairly healthy save for the layers of melty, gooey mozzarella cheese. I still enjoy making this dish when I have time to let it bubble away in the oven…on weeknights, though, that’s not always possible. So I did a little eggplant parm remix, and turned it into a pasta sauce. It was perfect with whole-wheat pasta, which I find a little too hearty for lighter sauces. Unfortch, not the most photogenic of dishes, but you get the idea…

Eggplant-Tomato Sauce with Whole-Wheat Pasta
serves 2 with leftovers

Olive oil nonstick cooking spray
1 medium eggplant, peeled and diced
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained
1 (14.5-ounce) can tomato sauce
1/2 tablespoon dried oregano
Handful fresh basil, torn
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1/2 box whole-wheat rotini, penne, or other short-cut pasta
Garnish: 1/3 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Preheat oven to 450. Generously coat a large baking sheet with cooking spray. Place eggplant on the baking sheet in one layer, and spray again with cooking spray. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roast for 20 to 25 minutes, tossing halfway through.

Meanwhile, cook pasta per package direction. Heat olive oil in a large, deep skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, and cook, stirring often, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, dried oregano, and salt and pepper. Gently simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove eggplant from oven, and add to tomato sauce; stir to combine. Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup cooking water. Add pasta to sauce, and add pasta water, 1/4 cup at a time, until the consistency of the sauce is to your liking. Stir in fresh basil and Parmesan. Serve, topped with mozzarella cheese, if desired.

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