the thin chef

The words egg salad elicit one of two responses: sounds of mmmm and yumm…or utterances of disgust. If you realize that I’ve posted about egg salad before, I wish I had a prize to give you. Because that means you have either been a reader from the beginning, or you’ve browsed my archives. Either of which definitely deserves a prize. I’ll work on that.

I digress. Egg salad, to me, is one of those things that can be delicious or horrendous, depending on the ingredients you use. Good, organic eggs, the fresher the better should be the base. Add just enough mayo to hold it all together. A dollop of dijon adds good flavor. Maybe a few capers, if you have them. Freshen it up with some herbs and a spritz of lemon. And whatever you do, don’t smash the eggs to a gushy mush. If you like hardboiled eggs, deviled eggs, etc…you’ll most likely enjoy egg salad if it’s made like this.

I like to spoon it onto grilled or toasted bread, a bite at a time. Sometimes I put a little bit of sambal olek or harissa to spice it up. For texture, I like to add a little extra salt in the form of big pink flakes or little gray pebbles. It’s a decidedly springy lunch, perfect for those endless February days when the warmth of summer feels juuuust beyond your reach.

Light + Fresh Egg Salad
serves 2 for lunch

4 eggs
3 to 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon dijon mustard
1 tablespoon capers, drained and lightly chopped (optional)
1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill or parsley
Light squeeze of lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Grilled or toasted bread, for serving
Sambal olek, harissa, or sriracha, for serving
Flake sea salt or gray salt, for serving

Put eggs in a pan and cover with about 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a boil. When the water boils, turn off heat and let sit, covered, 10 minutes. Drain and plunge into ice water or run under cold water for a few minutes to stop the cooking.

Peel eggs and place in a large bowl with the mayo and mustard. Using a fork, lightly mash eggs until they are in small pieces, being careful not to over-mash. Stir in capers, dill, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Spoon egg salad onto bread, adding hot sauce and/or a sprinkle of salt, if you like.

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We don’t buy salad dressing. Like, ever. Why? Because any dressing you make at home is going to taste 100% better than what you could buy. And, did I mention? It’s ridiculously easy to make your own. From a simple lemon vinaigrette (our go-to salad topper) to flavorful Asian versions, and even Caesar dressing, it’s cheaper, healthier, and tastier to make dressing at home.

I had some buttermilk in the fridge from making these pancakes (try them this weekend, they are wonderful), so I decided to make a less-guilty version of classic ranch dressing—a favorite in our house, but one we don’t indulge in often. It’s fantastic spooned over an avocado…add a few radish slices, and you have a legitimate salad. It’s also perfect drizzled over a simple salad topped with bacon—kind of a deconstructed wedge salad, that omnipresent steakhouse classic.

Buttermilk Dressing
makes about 1 cup

Less thick than classic ranch, this dressing is much healthier, using low-fat buttermilk and light mayonnaise. Usually, I find fresh garlic too strong in salad dressing, but garlic is kind of a hallmark of ranch. I think the granulated garlic achieved the right flavor without the harsh bite of fresh. If you don’t have granulated garlic, grate 1/2 small fresh clove into the dressing.

1/2 cup low-fat buttermilk
2 tablespoons light mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 heaping teaspoon chopped fresh dill

Combine buttermilk and mayo in a medium bowl. Whisk to combine. Add salt, pepper, granulated garlic, and dill. Whisk until salt and garlic are fully dissolved. Refrigerate for 1 hour before serving. Dressing will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

*Though this is not related to food, I’m going to mention it anyway: My high-school friend Vicki is in a contest to win a fabulous wedding package from Crate + Barrel. If you have 3 minutes to spare, click here: http://www.ultimateweddingcontest.com/entries/32658 and vote for her and her precious fiance. Wouldn’t you want to win a dream wedding? I thought so. Vote away!

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Potatoes are one of those chameleon foods (I also think eggs and tofu are chameleons)—they can be made into so many different dishes, and they take on the flavor of whatever they’re cooked with.

But sometimes (like eggs, but not really like tofu), potatoes are so lovely in their natural state with just a little something added to make them sparkle. Simply roasted with salt, pepper, oil, and some herbs, potatoes can be perfection.

Use a pretty heavy hand with the oil, salt, and pepper. It might not be the most figure-friendly way to cook, but it is the most flavor-friendly way. Plain potatoes can be awful, so don’t waste your time with skimpy oil or salt. These are a super versatile side dish, and leftovers are delicious chopped, cooked with some onions, and topped with fried eggs for breakfast hash.

Perfect Roasted Potatoes
serves 4

1 pound small red-skinned potatoes, well scrubbed and little sprouty spots removed
4 big cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt
Ground black pepper
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley or dill (or a combination of both)

Preheat oven to 450. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.

Cut potatoes in half or quarters, depending on their size. The goal is to make them all the same size. Place potatoes and smashed garlic in a large bowl, and add a few glugs of oil. Don’t drown them, but be generous (maybe 2 tablespoons). Toss potatoes in oil. Add salt and pepper (again, don’t be bashful with the seasonings). Toss until everything is well distributed.

Pour potatoes and garlic onto the prepared baking sheet. Spread them out so they’re not touching, and so the flat sides are facing down.

Roast for 20 minutes. Toss potatoes with a big spatula, and roast for 15 minutes more, or until potatoes are fork-tender and golden brown. Place potatoes in a serving bowl. Add herbs, and toss to combine. Serve immediately.

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Texture, to me, is half of what makes food good. Flavor, of course, is king…but for me, the texture can make or break a dish. For instance, the cheese dip you get in hole-in-the-wall Mexican places is one of my favorite guilty indulgences. It tastes good, sure, but what gets me is the combination of the warm, crisp chips covered in silky, melty, gooey cheese. It’s addictive. Perfectly cooked fresh pasta, slightly chewy and tender…it’s perfection. I can’t eat jello or applesauce because of the texture (they make me gag). It’s not that the flavor of those foods is gross to me…it’s purely a texture thing.

This brings me to dark meat chicken. Braised dark meat, to be exact. Braising coaxes out the innate butteriness of nearly anything (is butteriness a word? probably not, but oh well). Sometimes I like a slow braise, for things like short ribs and ropa vieja. But sometimes, a quick braise is all you need for a satisfyingly tender results. Chicken thighs do beautifully in a quick braise.

I was inspired by this Cooking Light recipe. (I got a subscription to CL for Christmas, and I’m loving it. Great magazine.) I essentially rewrote the recipe, though, for what I had on hand and what I thought would be good. It’s great for a weeknight, since it cooks quickly, and using dark meat is especially wallet-friendly.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Herbs and Tomatoes
serves 3 or 4, depending on how big your chicken thighs are

4 medium or large boneless, skinless chicken thighs
Coarse salt and ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons butter, divided
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 pint grape tomatoes
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup good chicken broth
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons sour cream (optional)
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 to 4 cups cooked egg noodles

Put chicken thighs on a plate. Use tongs to flatten the thighs (sometimes they’re curled up in the package), then evenly sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat in a large sautee pan with deep sides and a lid. Add onion and thyme. Cook until onion is translucent and tender, about 4 minutes. Move onion to edges of pan, and increase heat to medium-high. Add remaining butter to pan, and put chicken in pan. Sear until both sides of chicken are golden, about 3 minutes per side. Stir onions while the chicken sears so they don’t burn.

When chicken is seared, toss everything around. Add tomatoes, wine, chicken broth, and Dijon. Shimmy the pan, and stir, to combine everything. Cover pan, and reduce heat to medium. Simmer for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on how big the thighs are, until the center registers 160 on a meat thermometer.

Take chicken out of sauce, place on a clean plate, and cover loosely with foil. Turn heat up to medium-high, and simmer sauce until it’s reduced by a bit. Off the heat, stir in sour cream, if using. Stir in half of fresh parsley.

Put about 1 cup cooked egg noodles on each serving plate. Top with a chicken thigh, and spoon the sauce over top. Top with additional fresh parsley, and serve.

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Valentine’s Day isn’t really a big thing for us. Jason is usually much better than I am at the whole day, with pretty flowers and lovely chocolates to surprise me. This year, though, after the big move and outfitting our new digs with couches, tables, rugs, and the like, we decided that we’d give each other just the gift of an evening together. Of course in the house, that means an evening spent eating.

On the second day of our honeymoon in Paris last may, Jason tasted green peppercorn sauce (the one that came alongside his steak frites) for the first time. What ensued can only be described as true infatuation—I think he ordered this nearly every day we were there, and talked about it for weeks thereafter. But he had a point. The light but creamy sauce—speckled with mild green peppercorns and slightly sweet from the addition of brandy—is truly divine. No matter what. You could dip shoe leather in it and the leather would be edible. Delicious, even.

When we returned, I promised Jason I’d try my hand at making the sauce. We had some friends over for a bistro meal...but it wasn’t quite the same. Tonight, for our evening together, Jason suggested steaks with green peppercorn sauce. How could I say no to my Valentine? We couldn’t find brine-packed peppercorns, which are traditional, but that’s OK. The sauce was really, truly, spot on. As in almost as good as the ones we had in France. (Not to give myself too much credit…it’s a simple sauce…)

With roasted potatoes that were also among the best I think we’ve had in a very long time, (that post is to come) and, of course, the yummy, perfectly seared steaks, this was an absolutely fabulous evening in.

Honeymoon in Paris Steaks au Poivre
Serves 2

2 steaks of your choice (we like ribeyes, NY strips, or top sirloin)
Coarse salt and coarsely ground black pepper
Olive oil
2 tablespoons green peppercorns packed in brine (preferred) OR dried green peppercorns (still OK)
1/2 to 2/3 cup heavy whipping cream
1 cup beef stock or broth
Scant 1/4 cup brandy

Sprinkle steaks generously with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for about 30 to 40 minutes. If your steaks are very thick (2 1/2″ or more), preheat oven to 400º.

Crush peppercorns in a mortar and pestle or in a zip-top baggie with a rolling pin. Add the crushed peppercorns to 1/2 cup cream in a small bowl. Stir, and set aside.

Heat a large skillet over almost-high heat (an 8 out of 10). Add just enough oil to barely coat the skillet. If the oil smokes, it’s ready. If it doesn’t, give it another few seconds until it does. Open the windows in your kitchen and turn on any vent fans and ceiling fans. Pat top side of steaks dry with a paper towel, and carefully place dry side in skillet. Pat other side dry.

Cook steaks about 4 to 6 minutes per side, or until nicely browned and medium-rare, or your preferred doneness. (Here’s a good guide for knowing the doneness of your steak.) If your steaks are very thick, this is when you transfer them to the preheated oven for about 7 or 8 minutes more.

When the steaks come out of the skillet, reduce heat to medium-high (about a 6 out of 10) and immediately add stock to the skillet. Use tongs to scrape bits from the bottom. Add the cream and peppercorns, and stir. Add brandy. Simmer sauce until reduced and slightly thickened, about 8 minutes. Add additional cream, if you’d like, until the consistency and flavor are just right. There should be enough salt from the steaks left in the pan, but taste, and add salt, if needed.

Serve sauce either in a ramekin alongside steaks or spooned over top. Bon appetit!

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Have you ever baked a pizza in a skillet?

I remember being about 9 years old eating in a Pizzeria Uno and thinking it was divine. Just beyond. The golden, flaky, crispy crust, the gooey cheese, and the (probably bordering on ridiculous amounts of) sausage and thick, red sauce…it was so fabulous to me. I don’t think my parents were a fan, because I’m fairly certain we never went back. Perhaps because the Uno in Orlando was a chain, and a far cry from the true Chicago original. When I went to Chicago last year with my girlfriends, I knew I had to have the real thing. And we did. Not at Pizzeria Uno (I heard mixed reviews), but a place whose name I can’t recall. A fun, rowdy bar-restaurant with very few tourists in sight. Anyway, the pizza there brought back those delicious-gooey-yummy-flavorful memories. I do love thin crust, but I’m beginning to think that deep-dish is my true heart’s desire.

Jen of Last Night’s Dinner has posted a few times about the iron-skillet pizzas that she and her husband make (in fact, there are fabulous instructions and a recipe posted right now on her blog).  They always look amazing, and so one night, with barely enough ingredients on hand, I just kind of threw stuff in the pan and winged it. It was most certainly not the amazing version we had in Chicago, and it didn’t even look as good as Jen’s. But, I think we were onto something…and it’s my new favorite way to make pizza at home.

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I have always loved granola. Well, as far as I can remember. When I was young, we lived in a house about a half mile away from a TCBY. I remember when it first opened, when frozen yogurt was a new concept. The swirly stuff was considered healthy, and the toppings bar was unlike the one at our old haunt Baskin Robbins.

This one had granola in a little toppings cubby, neighbor to the colored jimmies, hot butterscotch, and candied walnuts. I don’t remember if I’d had it before, but from the first time I had it sprinkled onto my chocolate-vanilla swirl, I was hooked. From then on, it was granola that topped my TCBY, which became an almost daily treat when my mom was pregnant with my little brother (it was summertime, after all).

Granola remains a favorite ice cream topping, but it’s also a go-to order when dining anywhere that claims to make theirs from scratch. I’ve made it before…realizing it tastes best when coated in a generous mixture of oil and honey, making it a pretty unhealthy choice for breakfast, even if it’s made with oatmeal.

Last week, I tried a combination of a few different recipes I found online, modified to suit what I had in the pantry. I also cut the sugar and fat down. It was pretty good, but I’m going to keep tweaking until I find just the right mix. Until then, here’s the recipe to get you started. Adjust as you see fit.

Basic Honey-Almond Granola
Makes about 5 cups
I didn’t have any dried fruit on hand, so I didn’t put any in, but cranberries and cherries are both delicious add-ins. I’d add them after baking so they don’t get too dried out. If you don’t have almonds, walnuts and pecans are both good substitutes. And play around with sweeteners…try agave nectar or even apple juice concentrate instead of the honey/molasses combo for a taste and texture you like. The wheat germ not only adds nutritional goodness, it also helps everything stick together and get crunchy.

4 cups old-fashioned (not quick) oats
1 cup wheat germ
1 to 1 1/2 cups sliced almonds
1/2 cup honey
3 tablespoons molasses
2 to 3 tablespoons water
1/4 cup vegetable oil

Place oven racks in middle two positions. Preheat oven to 275º. Line 2 baking sheets with a Silpat or parchment paper. Set aside.

Combine oats, wheat germ, and almonds in a large bowl. Combine honey, molasses, 2 T water, and vegetable oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until mixture is uniform and melted.

Pour honey mixture over oat mixture and stir to combine, using your hands or a wooden spoon. Divide mixture in two on the prepared baking sheets.

Bake, stirring mixture and switching positions of pans halfway through, until granola is golden, about 15 to 25 minutes. (It won’t feel crisp until after it cools.) Keep an eye on it, as it goes from golden to burned in a matter of minutes. Cool on baking sheets set on wire racks until granola is cool to the touch and crisp. Store for up to a week in mason jars with tight-fitting lids, tupperware containers, or zip-top bags.

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I have high hopes for myself. I hope one day I’ll be the kind of gal who makes bread from scratch, cans and pickles the leftovers from my organic garden, and feeds my family things I made myself.

I figured bread would be the best thing to start with, because…have you heard? There are bundles of recipes that don’t require kneading or, really, much effort at all. It’s a dump-and-stir kind of thing, only way better than what those dump-and-stir recipes normally yield.

For a few years, I’d been seeing things here and there about Jim Lahey’s No Knead Bread. When I saw this post on the gorgeous blog Honey and Jam, it finally inspired me to give it a go. Not a mistake. This was the easiest recipe with the most satisfying outcome.

A few notes: For me, perhaps because it was a rather humid, rainy day, it took around 7 cups flour to get the dough right. But start with the 6 1/2 and go from there. Also, it yielded a nice, big loaf that I shared with our new neighbors (that started out as a grapefruit-size ball of dough), and a smaller loaf (that started out as a softball-size dough ball) I kept for us. Next time I’ll try to split it more evenly.

Even my dad, a devoted bread kneader, a traditionalist at heart, really liked this bread. I’m going to try variations throughout the next few weeks, and I’ll post the results as they come.

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For our Christmas party in December, I made bite-size meatballs inspired by the ones I’d had a few weeks earlier at my parents’ annual backyard party. I should back up—this party my parents throw is no typical backyard BBQ. Anyone who knows my family knows we simply cannot throw a party without this-is-why-we-came-to-the-party food.

A fabulous gastropub here in Winter Park called Ravenous Pig catered the party, and it was outrageously delicious. I managed to take a few pictures between the bites of food. For starters, there were miniature duck ruebens, Greek lamb meatballs, corn-and-crab fritters, mini biscuit BLTs, chicken liver mousse (I die. It was so good.), as well as artisanal cheeses and house-made salumi. For the main plates, we had braised swordfish (yes, braised, and it was awesome) and venison saddle. Dessert…oh, my. Root beer floats with malt ice cream, lovely little puffs of fried dough shaped like curlicue pigtails and propped in a puddle of rich dark chocolate ganache, and pumpkin crème brûlée with pepitas brittle.

Pictured here: Lots of amazing house-made salumi and artisanal prosciutto; Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk cheese, aged gouda, Miniature duck reubens; root beer floats; and the pigtails.

So, yes, back to the post at hand. The meatballs. I failed to get a picture of them, probably because I was too busy, you know, eating them. But they were perfect little bites perched atop dollops of cool tzatziki.  When it came time for me to make party food our Christmas get-together, these were at the top of my list. (For the record, they were a big hit…but that’s not what this post is about.)

This post is, actually, about dinner. The other night, I was thinking about those party meatballs, and how I could make dinner around them. I thought it might be fun to do a Greek-inspired twist on that ever-loving Italian classic spaghetti and meatballs, using orzo and the aforementioned Greek meatballs. I used ground chicken, but I think I’ll try lamb next time. The result was a quick weeknight meal with lots of interesting flavors and textures. And it all started with those little party hors d’oeuvres.

Greek Pasta and Meatballs
Serves 4

2 teaspoons olive oil, divided
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon salt, plus additional for sauce
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus additional for sauce
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
2 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, divided OR 2 teaspoons dried dill, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, divided
3 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs
3/4 pound ground meat (i.e. beef, lamb, turkey, or chicken)
1 egg white
2/3 cup uncooked orzo
2 cups canned crushed tomatoes or great-quality jarred marinara sauce
Crumbled feta cheese, to taste

Preheat oven to 400º. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.

Combine oil and onion in a small skillet over medium heat. Cook until mostly translucent, about 3 minutes. Add 1 clove minced garlic, cumin, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Stir, and cook until very fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to a small bowl, and set aside to cool for 5 minutes.

Combine 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh dill (or 1 teaspoon dried dill), 1 tablespoon mint, breadcrumbs, and cooled onion mixture in a medium bowl. Add ground meat and egg white. Use your hands to mix everything thoroughly, being careful not to squish or compact the meat too much.

Roll meat mixture into 1-inch meatballs (you should end up with about 20 total). As you roll them, place meatballs on the prepared baking sheet. Bake meatballs until tops are golden brown and insides are cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the kind of meat you choose.

While meatballs bake, cook orzo according to package directions. Heat the remaining oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add remaining garlic, and stir until fragrant and just turning golden. Add crushed tomatoes or marinara, and remaining herbs. Stir, and taste. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook until heated through.

To serve, divide orzo among 4 serving bowls. Spoon 1/2 cup sauce over each serving, and top with 4 or 5 meatballs. Top with crumbled feta, or pass it at the table so everyone can add the amount they prefer.

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Well hello there. I’m so glad you’re reading this, because it means two things: one, I didn’t lose every single reader I ever had during my little blogging hiatus, and two, it means I finished my first blog post in two months. I don’t usually post much (if anything) about my life outside of the kitchen here, but I figure that if you stuck around this long, you deserve an explanation.

Let’s see…it all started with a slight (but short) lull in my desire to cook. OK, pretty normal. We had pasta for a few nights. Well then the holidays hit, with after-work cocktail parties, dinners out, and days off. And I left my Canon in Florida when we were home for Thanksgiving, so the meals I actually did cook while I was cameraless went undocumented. (Bad excuse, you say? Sigh. I know.) Then came the Big Changes.

First, I decided to leave my job at the magazines to pursue a freelance career. That was Big Change number 1. Big Change number 2 came when we decided that since our families live in Florida and—aside from our incredible friends—the main thing keeping us in Birmingham was my job, we were ready to move back to the Sunshine State. Big Change 3 was the decision to buy our first house…which we found, put and offer on, and closed on within a month. We weren’t wasting any time!

So, all the changes afoot, the month of January became a whirlwind that is a cross-state move. That, along with numerous last dinners out and some lovely farewell parties, meant I didn’t cook a real meal in four weeks. Four! A whole month!

But now, we’re here. We’re officially Florida residents again, and we’re getting settled into our new (to us) bungalow. We’re still working on the cardboard-box-as-furniture thing, but one of my favorite parts of the house is the gorgeous kitchen. New appliances, great lighting, and granite countertops…oh, guys, it’s an absolute dream compared with our old kitchen. There are many culinary adventures to be had in there! I promise to show you soon.

If you’re still reading, this is where I will wrap things up, since I’ve been blathering on for paragraphs. I’m so happy you’re still with me…and I promise there are good things to come. For now, I’ll leave you with the first thing I made in the new house: healthy hummus. It’s a Cooking Light recipe, so I’ll link it and give you my modifications.

Classic Hummus
Adapted, ever so slightly, from Cooking Light magazine
Makes 3 1/4 cups

2 (15.5-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 to 3 big garlic cloves (depending on how much you like garlic), smashed and peeled
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup tahini (sesame seed paste, find it on the ethnic food aisle of grocery stores along w/ matzah and other kosher foods)
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Place beans and garlic in a food processor; pulse until chopped. Add the water, tahini, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons oil, salt, and pepper; run processor until very smooth, scraping down sides as needed.

Note: I like to stir in about a teaspoon of sambal olek into 1/4 cup of hummus and use cucumbers to scoop. It adds a nice tang and spiciness.

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