the thin chef

Fried rice is comfort food at its best—carbs, fat, and salt. I’ve eaten and loved it since I can remember. When I was little, there was Jum-Bo, our go-to Chinese takeout place. Their pork fried rice is among the best I’ve ever tasted…and even though I haven’t had it in years, I still remember that perfect balance of salty-greasy-chewy-sweet of the pork and rice.

When I was in high school, there was Miss Le, a lovely Vietnamese lady and a teacher at my brother’s elementary school. To thank my parents for helping out at the school, she lovingly made us dinner several times. Each of those dinners included a heaping plateful of fragrant Vietnamese fried rice. Different from the Chinese version, hers was softer, and flavored with fish sauce and rice vinegar. A memorable and truly special treat.

In college, there was Steamers, a tiny shack of a place that served sloppy joe sandwiches on onion bread, spicy coconut curry, and cheesesteaks. Oh, and fried rice. Huge, overflowing plates of freshly made fried rice. The cooks sweat over bright, hot orange flames that lick the bottoms of the perfectly seasoned woks. Not particularly Asian, the rice includes veggies, eggs, and meat, and is simply seasoned with salt, pepper, and the burnished copper-hued seasoning of the well-loved wok. That’s it, and it’s wonderful.

Is your mouth watering yet?

My version swaps brown rice for white, and isn’t too heavy on the oil. The trick is to cook everything separately and to use day-old rice. You can cheat by making the rice about 3 hours in advance, spreading it out on a cookie sheet, and refrigerating it.

I always add in some locally grown broccoli when it’s in season for the sake of having something green…and because it’s delicious. You can use your favorite veggie—baby bok choy and mustard greens both make tasty (and healthful) additions.

Shrimp and Pork Fried Rice
Serves 2 big appetites as a main dish, with leftovers

5 to 6 teaspoons peanut oil, divided
1 small head broccoli (about the size of a man’s fist), cut into tiny pieces
1/2 medium or 1 small yellow onion, diced
2 eggs, whisked
1/4 pound lean pork (tenderloin or boneless center-cut chops work well), cut into bite-size pieces
1/4 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
3 cups brown rice, cooked, cooled, and refrigerated for at least 6 hours
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Heat a large wok or skillet over almost-high heat. (*See note, below.) Add 1 teaspoon of oil, and heat until it shimmers. Add broccoli and onion; toss in oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender but still slightly crisp. Remove from skillet onto a plate, and set aside.

Return pan to heat, and add 1 teaspoon oil. Heat until it shimmers, then add eggs. Cook eggs until firm, breaking into bite-size pieces. Transfer to plate with veggies. Wipe pan carefully with a paper towel to remove any egg remnants.

Return pan to heat. Add another teaspoon or 2 of oil; add pork in a single layer. Don’t stir for at least 1 minute, to get a nice sear on the meat. Cook until mostly cooked through, then transfer to plate with eggs and veggies. Repeat process with shrimp, keeping in mind that shrimp cooks very quickly, and will cook further when tossed with the rice.Ttransfer cooked shrimp to the plate with everything else.

Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil to the pan. Add rice, in a single layer, and let cook without stirring for about 2 minutes. Toss rice, and continue cooking for another few minutes until rice is coated in oil and golden in color. Add veggies, eggs, pork, and shrimp, tossing to combine. Drizzle with soy sauce and sesame oil, tossing to coat. Taste, and add salt or additional soy, if desired. Serve immediately.

*I put my stove on an 8 out of 10. You know your stove best, so adjust accordingly—you want the pan nice and hot, but you also want to give food a chance to cook through without burning.

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I don’t know what summer is like where you live, but here in Central Florida? It’s hot. As in plants-are-wilting, hair-is-sticking-to-your-neck, asphalt-is-melting, feel-like-fainting-after-one-minute-outside hot. It’s all we can do to take the dogs to the park in the morning before the sun gets so oppressive even they don’t want to spend time outdoors. (And who ever heard of a dog who didn’t want to go outside?)

On days (or weeks, or months) when the heat is such that even turning on the stove to boil a kettle of water seems inhumane, the meals we crave tend to be cool, light, and easy to make. Snacks should be the same, and that’s exactly what these popsicles are—cold, refreshing, and so simple. I have always been a popsicle fan…I lived for the tri-color rocket pops that counselors handed out in the afternoons at summer camp. If I spotted a Frozfruit coconut bar in a freezer case, I had to have it. I loved the strawberry popsicles in the Disney World ice cream cart so much that one time, my tongue got stuck to the bar when I couldn’t wait even one second to take my first lick. (The painful incident was eased by the sweet pink treat.)

I digress. Popsicles are lovely, satisfying summertime snacks, and when you make your own, you can experiment with lots of different flavors. Below are two we’ve been enjoying on these endlessly blistering, humid days.

Watermelon Popsicles with Lime and Salt
Makes 8 (1/4-cup-capacity) popsicles

3 cups diced seedless watermelon
1 to 4 tablespoons sugar, depending on the sweetness of your watermelon
1 lime, cut into 8 wedges, for serving
Coarse sea salt, for serving

Combine watermelon and sugar in a blender; puree until very smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Pour into popsicle molds, and freeze overnight.

Serve popsicles with a lime wedge and a small pile of salt. Squeeze the lime over popsicle, and sprinkle with or dip into salt.

Striped Tropical Popsicles
Makes 8 (1/4-cup-capacity) popsicles

1/2 cup diced seedless watermelon, pureed and strained
1/2 cup guava nectar
1/2 cup passion fruit juice

Pour watermelon puree evenly among popsicle molds. Freeze for at least 4 hours, or until frozen solid. Top with guava nectar; freeze for 4 hours, or until solid. Top with passion fruit juice; freeze for 4 hours, or until solid.

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Wow…that last break I took was a big one! My excuses are many, but uninteresting, so what do you say we just move on? Starting now, a whole new me…diligent and disciplined. And ready to blog again!

What has been keeping me busy the last few months, you ask? Well, there was a lot of travel (including a trip to Ireland), and a lot of working on an exciting project called Edible Orlando magazine. Do you know about Edible magazines? I’m the editor of the Orlando edition, which launches in September, and I couldn’t be more excited about it. The last few months have been filled with trips to local farms, farmers’ markets, Slow Food planning meetings, and the like. The local food movement in Central Florida is on fire, and I’m so excited to be a part of it. The magazine will celebrate the wonderful people who grow and make the foods that come from this corner of the world.

For the premiere issue, I wrote a story focused on having a locavore thanksgiving, and I thought I’d give you a sneak peek at one of the recipes that’s light enough to make during these hot months (it actually tastes great at room temperature). If you live in the Central Florida area, join us for the Edible Orlando launch party on August 31 at Whole Foods—I’ll update you with more info as we get it. And in the meantime, support your local farmers and chefs by buying and eating local. It’s just about the best thing you can do (in this food-loving girl’s opinion) for your body and your community.

Crisp Oven-Roasted Cauliflower with Gremolata Bread Crumbs
Serves 6

2 large heads cauliflower
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt, divided
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
Zest of 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.
2. Trim tough stem and core from cauliflower and discard. Using a paring knife, cut cauliflower into smaller spears. Place in a large bowl. Add 1/4 cup oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper; toss to combine.
3. Spread cauliflower out on 2 large, rimmed baking sheets. Roast until edges start to brown, about 20 minutes, stirring halfway through.
4. Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add panko and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and stir to coat in oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until bread crumbs are golden. Add lemon zest and garlic and toss until mixture is very fragrant and bread crumbs are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Place in a medium bowl and add parsley, stirring to combine. Set aside.
5. Remove cauliflower from oven and place on serving platter. Top with bread crumbs and serve immediately.

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I was fortunate enough to attend the 15th anniversary lunch celebration at Disney’s California Grill last week. Chef Brian Piasecki is incredibly talented. Here’s what we ate.  {All photos shot with my cell phone.}

Tempura soft shell crab with local, organic citrus, hearts of palm, crystal lettuce, Asian vinaigrette + wasabi cream

Herb gnocchi with roasted baby spring market veggies (tiny celery hearts, thimble-size artichokes, and baby lettuces), cucumber blossoms, and carrot foam

Seared Columbia River wild, line-caught salmon with English pea risotto, blue foot chanterelles, and ramp pesto; topped with local, organic pea shoots

Wood-fired Karobuta pork medallions, fried sage leaves, glazed wild mushroom ragout, goat cheese polenta, and Zinfandel reduction

Florida Peaches + Cream: peach tarte Tatin, peach ice cream + streusel, peach panna cotta with champagne gelee, house-made peach nectar, and chopped fresh Florida peaches

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Have you seen this great new e-magazine? I am loving it.

I’ve been in the kitchen A LOT lately, testing recipes for a cookbook that I can’t share with you. As soon as these recipes are out of my head and I’m able to concentrate on food I can share again, I promise I’ll blog again.

Until then, take a look at Sweet Paul…

(all images from Sweet Paul)

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I think that maybe I had grilling withdrawal. With a measly little half-porch back in Birmingham, our little black grill sat, neglected, for more than a year in the shed. Under its dust-covered gray sheath, it looked forlorn and forgotten. I wanted to give it love, but we just didn’t want to be those people grilling in the front driveway.

But now…now we have a fabulous deck and a private, green, lush backyard where we love to spend time. We took the grill out of hibernation, scrubbed it up, and it’s good as new. We had one grilled meal, then another, and another. It’s all I can do to not plan every dinner to be cooked out there. So, in short, I think I had grilling withdrawal, and now I’m overcompensating.

Anyway. One of Jason’s and my favorite things are these grilled artichokes from Houston’s. Thought I’m not usually one for chain eateries, I quite enjoy Houston’s…and the grilled artichokes are to-die-for good. I could eat them every day. They’re smoky, crisp, buttery, perfect. They’re also super simple…no fancy spices, no complicated cooking process. So I set about re-creating them last night.

Just a few minutes on the stove and a few more on a hot grill, and you have the best artichokes ever. (Try them, you’ll see.) Even though I could have eaten just the artichokes for dinner, dipped in creamy herb sauce, they were perfect paired with garlicky chicken thighs also charred and crisped on the grill.

p.s. The artichokes were less than beautiful at my grocery store, but I got them anyway. When you’re shopping for them, look for ones with long stems, tightly closed leaves (unlike the ones shown above), and ones that feel big for their size.

Grilled Artichokes
serves 2 as a side
I cut these in half, but I think they’ll be better quartered next time, maximizing the surface area that touches the hot grill.

2 fresh artichokes
2 tablespoons olive oil
Hefty pinch coarse salt
2 tablespoons light or regular mayo
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh chopped herbs (such as dill, parsley, and/or mint)
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
Pinch coarse salt
Few grinds black pepper

Peel the bottom, tough leaves off of artichokes. Cut top 1/3 off with a large, sharp knife. Peel stems with a vegetable peeler. Snip prickly tops off of leaves. Place both artichokes in a large stockpot of boiling water; cover pot. Cook for 15 minutes, or until the base of the artichokes (not the stem, the base of the leaves) is easily pierced with a knife.

Drain, and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, Cut artichokes in half. Scoop out the fuzzy hairs in the artichoke, and discard. Cut again into quarters. Brush the artichokes with the oil, and sprinkle with salt. Place artichokes on a preheated hot grill. Grill until charred in places and golden brown everywhere else. Eat immediately, or at room temperature.

To make the dip, combine mayo, Dijon, herbs, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Whisk with a fork to combine. Serve with artichokes.

Grilled Garlicky Chicken
serves 4

1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 lime, zested and juiced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs

In a shallow dish that can hold all of the chicken, combine garlic, lime zest, oil, and salt. Whisk with a fork to combine. Put chicken thighs in pan, turning to coat completely. Make sure the garlic and zest are on the chicken, not scattered around the dish!

Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours. Bring to room temperature before grilling. Prepare your grill with a hot side and a low-heat side (scatter 1/4 of the hot coals on one side, and leave the rest piled on the other side). Grill chicken over the hot coals for 3 to 5 minutes per side, or until cooked through. If it’s looking too charred before it’s done, finish cooking on the cooler side. Serve immediately.

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Today’s healing recipe is along the lines of warm, creamy comfort food…but without the heavy cream or cheese that often comes along with thick soups. Red lentils, unlike their green and black cousins, almost melt when you cook them. They lose all sense of the little hard rusty red discs they once were and become lush, soft orangey goodness with a creamy texture that’s oh-so comforting.

Full of fiber, protein, and iron, lentils are a perfect food to eat when you’re not feeling 100%. This soup also has turmeric in it, which has lately been the darling of health scientists who believe the marigold-hued ground root can ward off myriad ailments from melanoma to arthritis to Alzheimer’s. Impressive, no? Plus its vivid color pumps up the color of the soup, taking it from sun-faded orange to the gorgeous gold of a fiery sunset. (The addition of saffron does the rest.)

A drizzle of cool harissa-spiked yogurt gives this soup an added creamy-salty-spicy kick that I think completes it. When you deliver this soup to your ailing friends, place the yogurt in a separate container and leave a note about what to do with it.

Healing Red Lentil Soup with Harissa Yogurt
serves 6

1 tablespoon olive oil
3 large shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon hot paprika or 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 pinch saffron threads
1/4 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1 quart organic chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups water
1 1/2 cups red lentils
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon harissa*
Juice of half a small lemon
2 teaspoons water

Heat oil in a stockpot over medium heat. Add shallot, and cook until it’s soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, and cook until it’s fragrant and tender, about 2 minutes. Add spices and salt, stirring well, and cook 1 minute. Add stock, water, and lentils.

Increase heat to high, and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium-low, and simmer until lentils are soft and falling apart, about 30 to 40 minutes. Taste, and add more salt if needed.

In a small bowl, whisk together yogurt, harissa, lemon juice, and water. Add more water if needed to reach a drizzle-able consistency.

To serve, ladle soup into serving bowls and drizzle with yogurt.

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Maybe you’re like me. When someone is hurt, sick, going through a life change (like having a new baby), or otherwise in need, I bring food. I cook because I know that when I’m out of sorts in any way, sometimes dinner (or lunch, or breakfast for that matter) falls to the bottom of my priority list. It’s always a relief to look in the fridge and see a lovingly prepared dish waiting for me.

Oftentimes those dishes are comfort food. Creamy, cheesy pasta casseroles, hearty pot roast, chili, and things like that. Finding comfort in a big bowl of warm, homey food can be perfect. But sometimes—especially when someone is sick or recovering from surgery or from having a baby—lighter, more wholesome foods seem to fit the bill.

Something that can stay in the fridge for up to a week, or—even better still—freezes well, is the only way to go when delivering food to someone. The next few days, I’m going to share some go-to things you can prepare with love and bring to someone who needs a little TLC.

First up is a simple salad that combines whole grain (brown and wild rice), dark leafy greens, bright red peppers, and a sweet-salty dressing to bring it all together. It’s super healthy, mild enough for recovering/sensitive stomachs, and it only gets better as it sits in the fridge. I’d call it just about perfect for a feel-better nosh.

Healing Rice + Vegetable Salad
serves 4 to 6

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups finely chopped kale
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup finely chopped roasted piquillo peppers (or regular red peppers)
2 tablespoons white miso paste
3 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 cups cooked brown and wild rice mix (about 1 cup uncooked)

Heat oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add pepper flakes, and cook for 30 seconds. Add kale (be careful! it will splatter if it’s wet) and stir with tongs until it’s coated in the oil. Sprinkle with salt. Cook, stirring, until kale is bright green, somewhat wilted, and browned in places, about 4 minutes.

Transfer cooked kale to a large bowl. Add chopped peppers, and stir to combine. In a small bowl, whisk together miso, mirin, and vinegar until combined. Add rice to the bowl with kale and peppers, stirring very well to combine. Pour dressing over everything, and toss again until everything is coated. Taste, and add salt if you think it needs it. (But it likely won’t because miso is salty!)

Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving…overnight is even better. Salad keeps, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 1 week.

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Easter when I was young usually meant a trip to West Palm Beach to visit my mom’s aunt and uncle, new dresses (sometimes with lacy gloves or white woven hats), patent-leather mary janes, backyard egg hunts, dyeing eggs in vinegary water, peanut-butter eggs, Cadbury eggs, robin’s eggs (candies), and deviled eggs.

Eggs are the most common archetype of Easter, I think. They symbolize spring, renewal, (re)birth, and all that. We often ate deviled eggs at family functions all throughout the year, but for some reason, they still remind me of Easter. I do love the classic, with mayo and a touch of mustard, dusted with paprika, and served cold from the fridge. But when I let my mind wander, I started to think of the delicious combinations that could take deviled eggs from 1960s picnic staple to 2010 Easter dinner worthy. (Am I the only one who daydreams about making deviled eggs more interesting? Surely not…)

I landed on two I thought sounded the best. The first is just the classic, jazzed up: smoked paprika gives the filling a nice smoky depth, and smoked sea salt lends a tiny crunch on top. The second, my new personal favorite, blends bright green basil and lemon zest with just a touch of Dijon for a springy, flavorful take on the sometimes ho-hum classic.

Deviled Eggs Two Ways
makes 24 deviled eggs
I like the filling to be mounded on top, so I boil 1 extra egg for every 6, keeping the yolk and discarding the white. Older eggs are easier to peel, so if at all possible, buy your eggs about 4 days before you need them. If you prefer one of these flavors over the other, just double the add-ins for that flavor and omit the others.

14 organic eggs
1/3 cup low-fat or regular mayonnaise, divided

For the Smoked Paprika Eggs:
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
Smoked sea salt (or other coarse salt)

For the Lemon-Basil Eggs:
1/4 cup fresh roughly chopped basil
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Zest of 1/2 lemon
Flake sea salt (or other delicate salt)

Place eggs in a large stockpot and fill with cold water until the eggs are covered by about 2 inches. Cover, and place over high heat. When water boils, turn off the heat. Remove pot from hot burner (if you have an electric cooktop). Set a kitchen timer (or watch the clock) for 14 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with cold water and ice. After the eggs are cooked, carefully transfer them from the hot water to the ice water. Let eggs cool.

When cool, lightly tap eggs on the countertop to crack shells, and peel. Cut eggs in half lengthwise with a sharp knife. Place two medium bowls on the counter. Gently pop the yolks out of each white half, putting 14 yolk halves into one bowl and 14 into the other. Discard 2 whole whites, and set remaining whites on a tray or plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.

In the first bowl, add half of mayo and the smoked paprika. Use a fork to mash and stir the mixture until it’s smooth and uniform. Set aside. Place the yolks from the second bowl into a mini food processor. Add remaining mayo, basil, Dijon, and lemon zest. Process until basil is finely chopped and mixture is smooth and creamy. (Alternately, finely chop the basil and mash with a fork as described above.) Return basil-lemon filling to the second bowl. Cover both bowls with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

To serve, spoon filling into the white halves. To be fancier, spoon fillings into 2 plastic zip-top bags, then cut a hole in one corner. Use it as you would a piping bag and pipe the filling into the whites. Sprinkle the paprika eggs with smoked salt and the basil eggs with big flakey salt. Serve cold or at room temperature.

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